Learn to Build a Stone Wall

By Tutorials.com

January 15, 2008

Learn2 Build a Dry Stone Wall    Courtesy of:

 

 

Need wall ideas? Check out landscape design magazines, or stonework brochures from the supplier. Just stay clear of overly complex designs that need professional skills to assemble.

 

For a little extra, you can sometimes buy stone with lichen or moss already growing on it, for that pre-aged look.

 

If you want to use stone gathered from your own property, be aware that you might need more than what you have available (and that, as a rule of thumb, you'll always need more than you think you will). Consider taking a sample to a supplier to make sure it can be matched, if necessary.

 

Have the stone and aggregate placed as close to the working area as possible, without, of course, blocking the wall's placement.

 

If you're building a long wall, you may want to have the aggregate dumped in multiple piles along the planned course for easier access.

 

If your aggregate pile isn't easily accessible, a good way to transport it to the wall is with a wheelbarrow or large buckets (10-gallon drywall buckets work well). Just fill them at the pile, carry them to the wall, and pour them in.

 

When laying out the base stones, let them drop from your hand from about 6 inches (15.2 centimeters) above the aggregate--this will "seat" them, tamping down the base further for added stability. Use this technique when setting the rest of the stone as well, so the wall settles as you go.

 

To create chink stone, place a larger stone on the ground and break it into pieces with your sledgehammer. Always use protective glasses when doing this, and try to use stone that isn't useful in its current form.

 

If the top of a set stone doesn't cant enough toward the wall's center, don't worry. You can lay chink stone on the top to make the next stacked stone cant correctly.

 

You can shape a stone by chipping off its thinner edges. Hit it hard with your brick hammer's sharp end until you have a score line around the area you want to break off. If the piece doesn't break, keeping hitting along the score. Don't expect a perfect break every time.

 

As you build your courses, alternate the placement of the cornerstones. For example, if one cornerstone ties the side, on the next course, set in two or three cornerstones that run perpendicular to it.

 

Try to set tie stones in your courses about every 4 feet (1 meter).

 

If you want to adjust a stone that's already set, push the flat edge of your crowbar underneath the stone and use the stone beneath it for leverage. You'll be able to move it much more easily than if you use your hands.

 

Cut a 1 by 2-inch (2.5 by 5-centimeter) board to the height you want your wall, so you have an easy reference check as you build.

 

To check the wall's cant, hold the reference board with one end resting on the ground and touching the bottom edge of the base stone. Hold your level against one side of the board to make sure it's perpendicular to the ground, and then use your measuring tape to check the distance from the board to the wall's face.

 

If you want a level top to your wall, plant stakes firmly at each end of the wall before you reach the last course, and then tie a string between the stakes as high as the wall's projected height. Hold your level up to the string, adjusting it until its level. Once it is, build the remaining course and capstones up to the string.

 

To calculate the amount of aggregate you'll need as backfill, multiply the height of the wall with its length, then multiply this with the rough distance between the top of the wall and the point where the embankment begins to slope. Divide this figure by two.

 

Even with only one exterior side, a retaining wall still needs tie stones. Lay them regularly so one end enters the backfill. This will anchor and strengthen the wall.

 

Tamp down the backfill aggregate as you build so the wall is regularly settled.

 

If you're building at the bottom of a long slope or hill, the runoff (the water that moves through the ground) could be significant enough to require a drainage perimeter pipe, available at hardware and landscape supply stores. Lay the pipe against the back of the base stones, on top of the drainage layer of aggregate, then backfill aggregate over it as you build. Follow the package directions regarding fitting and sloping the pipe.

 

 

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Your very own bouldered bastion of bulwarked beauty

 

Built by carefully stacking stones without using mortar, a dry stone wall can give an everyday landscape a timeless air, and with good reason. This type of work is one of the oldest trades in history. If you're interested in creating a wall for your own yard, be it for aesthetics or function (such as a retaining wall), we'll take you through the materials, tools, and techniques of this ancient art form.

 

 

They don't measure stone in tons for nothing. Keep your project within a manageable scale and treat your materials with respect. Always wear heavy-duty work gloves and work boots (steel-toed are the safest). If you're chipping or breaking stone, wear protective glasses. If you have any physical problems, try to work with a partner in case you need help. And finally, if you're feeling tired, take a break--fatigue and stonework don't mix.

 

Note: Be aware of building codes and property laws. If you live in an area that's prone to earthquakes, codes may prohibit this type of wall. If you're building to mark your property line, avoid misunderstandings by consulting your neighbors beforehand.

 

Design the wall

The more effort you put into planning, the less likely you'll be to run into unexpected problems when you build. As you start plotting out your wall, keep three things in mind:

Scope. As mentioned previously, you don't want to get in over your head. Even if you have a grand plan for your wall, start small. It's best to build no more than 60 cubic feet (18.3 cubic meters) at a time. For example, a wall that's 2.5 feet high, 1.5 feet wide, and 15 feet long (.76 by .45 by 4.5 meters) is about 56 cubic feet. Staying in this range should give you a good feel for the physical and technical demands of stonework, without too much strain. And remember, you can always add more later if you want.

Fit. A good design complements its surroundings, so try to picture the finished wall within its planned setting. Will a soft curve work best, or a more regimented straight line? A low wall, or one that's slightly higher? Consider your present landscaping style: A more meandering garden might fit well with rougher-looking stone, while for a carefully manicured yard, you'll probably want a cleaner, more formal design. Also, don't forget that stone can come in a variety of colors--consider what shade will balance with the house and landscape.

Stone. The best way to decide on stone is to go to your local supplier (check under "landscape supply" or "stone" in the phone book), describe your project and the "look" you want, and see what they recommend (and what they have in stock). The most commonly used wall stone is faceted, that is, with easy-to-stack, squared-off faces--key for a solid construction. There are many varieties of faceted stone, with differences in color, shape, texture, and price.

Other wall choices include river rock, rounded stones that you should probably avoid, since you'll need a very wide base to stack them safely, and flat stone, rock such as shale or slate that comes in thin slabs. Flat stone can make fine drystack walls, but it usually costs significantly more, since its smooth surfaces are better suited for more polished work.

Whatever your decision, remember that your wall will only be as good as its materials, so go with quality. Cheaper, more roughly shaped stone may seem like a good buy (after all, a rock's a rock, right?), but it can add a lot of difficulty to the construction while subtracting from overall aesthetics.

 

Calculate your materials

Once you've chosen your stone, it's time to put on your math cap and figure out just how much stone and filler you'll need. Here's how:

  • Decide on the wall's dimensions. (If you've already figured the rough size, it's time to get specific.) Measure out the length with a measuring tape. For the height, stay under 2.5 feet (.76 meters)--anything higher could have stability problems. The base should be roughly three-quarters of the height, unless it's a low wall (under 1.5 feet, or .45 meters), in which case it should match the height.
  • To find the amount of stone you'll need, multiply height times width times length to get the total cubic area of the wall. Next, divide this figure by 15 to calculate the stone in tons (15 cubic feet of stone is roughly 1 ton, the unit in which stone is sold), or by 4.57 to calculate it in metric tonnes.
  • You'll also want filler, or aggregate--bits of washed stone to put between the exterior sides of the wall and below it, for stability and drainage. Aggregate is sold by the cubic yard, which is 27 cubic feet (about 9 cubic meters). The amount you'll need can depend on the type of stone you use, so get the stone supplier's recommendation before you buy (these places will commonly sell aggregate, too). A safe bet is about half of the total cubic feet. Dividing the total cubic feet by 54 (27 times 2) will give you that figure in cubic yards.

If you're wondering why you'd need the full amount of cubic feet in stone, in addition to half in filler, the reasons are stability, selection, and security. First, you'll need a little extra aggregate for the base layer below the wall. Some extra stone will give you more sizes and shapes to choose from, which is crucial to a well-built wall. And finally, remember it's better to have too much than too little.

 

Gather and sort your materials

When you're ready to order your materials, be sure to tell the supplier what size aggregate you want (3/4 of an inch, or 1.9 centimeters, is best--big enough to not slip through the joints, but small enough to shovel easily). For the stone, you'll want a variety of sizes. Expect a rough mix of these five shapes:

·                     Cornerstones: Large stones with 90-degree angles that you can use for wall corners

·                     Capstones: Large, flat stones that "cap" the top course of the wall

·                     Tie stones: Long stones that lay across the full width of the wall, "tying" the two sides together for added security

·                     Base stones: Large, stable stones used for the first course

·                     And finally, mixed grade, which includes everything in between

Unless you want to pick up the stone yourself, the supplier will deliver it (usually for an added charge). Stone typically comes on pallets so they can be placed wherever you want. The aggregate will usually be delivered in a dump truck and deposited in a pile.

Once the stone is delivered, it's up to you to unload it from the pallets. As you do, try to sort it by the shapes listed previously. This way, you won't waste time searching for the right size when you start building.

Dig and line the base

The stability of your wall will largely depend on its base, so here are the steps to setting it up correctly:

·                     Mark off the base's dimensions (width and length) by tapping wooden stakes into the ground at each of the wall's corners, then tie string lines between the stakes and close to the ground. Note: If your wall is curved, you can mark the edge by tapping in evenly spaced stakes along the curve, then connecting them with string. Or try laying out a garden hose along the edge--this will give you a smooth curve every time.

·                     Within the dimensions, dig a 4-inch (10-centimeter) deep trench if the wall is shorter than 1.5 feet (.5 meters). If it's higher than that, dig the trench 8 inches (20.3 centimeters) deep. Remove any roots or rocks so you have a level trench bottom.

·                     For a shorter wall, line the trench with two inches (5 centimeters) of aggregate. For a taller one, line it with a 4-inch (10-centimeter) layer of aggregate.

·                     Tamp down the layer. You can do this using a commercial hand tamper, but laying a board over the layer and jumping on it a few times works just as well.

With the recessed trench providing snug security for your first course, and the aggregate allowing for proper water drainage, you're ready to start building.

 

Lay the base stones

As you start your stone-laying extravaganza, don't forget to stretch those muscles first, lift with your legs, not your back, and keep these guidelines in mind:

·                     Start at one end of the wall, laying the cornerstone in the trench first. If possible, try to find a cornerstone that "ties" the corner--that is, lays across the full width of the wall.

·                     Lay down the base stones, one after the other, by butting them together in two parallel rows on either side of the wall. Leave space between the rows where aggregate filler will go. Try to lay a tie stone every yard or so for strength.

·                     When you pick the base stones, don't worry if they match in height. The most important criterion is that each stone has two fairly flat faces--one to sit on the aggregate drainage layer (usually the larger face), and one to point out from the wall (hopefully, the better-looking face). For the top face (onto which the next course will be laid), the one key requirement is that it doesn't slant away from the wall's center. If anything, it should slant toward the center, since you want your successive courses to "cant," or slope slightly inward. This allows the wall to stabilize itself.

·                     Stone walls look best when the joints (the spaces between the butted stones) are tight and complement each other, so try to pick base stones that will butt together in this way. If you can't find a good match, don't worry. You can always add "chink" stone--small, broken pieces of larger stone used to fill in larger joint gaps, or to help correctly cant the stone.

·                     Once you've finished laying the base stone (with another nice cornerstone or two at the opposite end), shovel in the aggregate filler, enough so it crests the tops of the shorter stones.

As you build, you'll notice that laying wall stone is a little like solving a giant puzzle. What you put in early on can have a big effect on what you set on top of it later, so don't rush the work.

 

Build the courses

In masonry, a course is a continuous, level layer of stone, which, when stacked on top of other courses, forms a wall. However, since typical wall stone isn't uniform in size (like brick), a drystack course won't be one level layer of stones, but a mix of sizes and shapes fitted together into one roughly level layer of stones (onto which you build the next course). To get started, follow these guidelines:

Placement. With the exception of laying the base stones, build each course by starting on either end of the wall and regularly alternating between the two ends until the two sides meet in the center and the course is completed. This will help tie the wall together.

Height. Each course's height depends mainly on the size of the stone you use for it. For example, to create a level course with the base stones, you need to stack on top of the shorter ones to square them up with the taller ones; thus, the taller stones determine the height of that course. (Courses typically range from 6 to 12 inches, or 15.3 to 30.5 centimeters.)

Levelness. Remember: roughly level. With the course layer's crest, you mainly want to provide a stable shelf for the next course, and ultimately the capstones. If the layer wanders up and down a little, that's fine (although for the last course, you'll want a fairly level base for the capstones).

Joints. When you start a new course (or stack rock within a course) always cover the open joints of the butted stones below it. It's a good policy to have no more than three stones coming together vertically (usually in a T-shaped joint). Too many vertical joints (four stones or more, forming a cross) can weaken the wall's integrity.

Canting. This is absolutely critical to the wall's strength. The rule of thumb is to cant each side toward the center 1.5 inches for every foot (3.8 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters) on either side. Measure regularly as you build the wall up.

Filler. Continue to add your aggregate filler as you lay your stone. By keeping the filler level crested with your building height, you provide constant stability and backing to the stones. Remember that the aggregate can help form the shelf onto which you stack your next course.

Facing. Don't forget about looks. Keep your joints tight and complementary, using chink stone when needed, and try to orient the stone's best face forward, with its edges as flush as possible with the surrounding stone. Alternate shapes, sizes, and placement. Just remember to save enough of the special stone (such as cap, tie, or cornerstones) for their particular areas.

Once you develop a rhythm for the work and a feel for the stone, you'll be surprised at how involving an activity this is. Mind and muscle combine, and piece by piece your vision becomes reality--a very satisfying process from start to finish.

 

Build a retaining wall (optional)

With a few tweaks to the design, a dry stone wall can turn into a functional (and beautiful) retaining wall. Here's how it's done:

Dig a drainage area. Since the wall will have soil behind one side, it'll be in contact with a lot more moisture. This means you'll need to provide a drainage area behind and below the wall. To start, mark off the wall's base and dig a trench, with the width equaling three-quarters of the wall's height. The trench's back edge should run along the soil embankment. Next, if the embankment isn't naturally sloped, you'll need to dig out enough soil, starting at the back edge of the trench, to create an incline that's about 6 inches for every foot of height (15 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters).

Build and fill. Line the trench with aggregate, tamp it, lay in your base stones and start building your courses. Since you'll only be building one face, backfill aggregate between the stone and the soil slope as you create the courses. Use the same construction techniques explained earlier, with the exception of canting. Here, you want a slightly steeper cant, about 2.5 inches for every foot (6.3 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters), since the wall will be supporting more weight. Angle the stones toward the slope when you seat them in the wall.

Cap the wall. You can either build right up to the embankment level, with the aggregate backfilled behind it and showing on the surface, or, for a more natural finish, you can cover the aggregate with soil to grow plants right up to the wall's edge.

To do this, stop building and backfilling when the wall is about 8 inches (20.3 centimeters) from the top of the soil slope. Lay down a length of landscape fabric over the top of the aggregate (this will allow water to pass through, but not soil), then continue building the wall. Backfill over the fabric with soil. Whatever method you choose, the wall should reach about 4 inches (10 centimeters) above the backfill when finished.

Remember, retaining walls aren't just for battling erosion. They also work well for creating gardening terraces, planting beds, or just for pure aesthetics.

 

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